Culinary History

The promise of the Dunes Hotel & Casino in the months leading up to its May 23, 1955 opening was one of opulence and luxury. This quality was reflected in everything from the property’s interior design, its architecture, and its culinary offerings, which were described in the Las Vegas Review-Journal as “conjured up to tempt the Sheik of Araby.” The Dunes’ Arabian Room set the tone with not only an extensive menu, but also by offering live entertainment on its massive 65×35 foot stage, in which a cast of 50 performers brought to life a variety show, New York-Paris-Paradise.

In 1961, the property’s Sultan’s Table restaurant opened, representing a $500,000 investment from the Dunes’ owners. Under the direction of culinary manager Joaquin C. Noriega and Chef John Bertranou, the Sultan’s Table offered “continental and American cuisine at moderate prices” nightly, setting the standard for gourmet restaurants in the city for decades to come. In a glowing review from the Las Vegas Review-Journal, the Sultan’s Table was as praised for its design—which included moonbeam lighting and an interior waterfall—as it was for its cuisine, which was compared to prestigious restaurants of the time, including Antoine’s of New Orleans and the Savoy in London.

Just four years later, in June 1965, the Dunes’ Dome of the Sea restaurant opened, featuring a dining room programmed with over $150,000 worth of special effects designed to evoke the nautical settings of Jules Verne. A live “mermaid harpist” provided diners with “seascapes in music” to accompany their meals, prepared by Executive Chef Gabriel Anet. Seafood was flown in daily from New Orleans, the Great Lakes, and the Gulf of Mexico. The Dome of the Sea is believed to be the first seafood restaurant in Las Vegas history.

Finally, to commemorate the opening of the Dunes in 1955, the Bliss Ice Cream Restaurant on 1401 North Fifth Street offered a “fancy sundae” in honor of the property. The “Dunes Delight” consisted of scoops of vanilla, chocolate, and strawberry ice cream topped with crushed strawberries and maple nuts, with a swirl of whip cream, some sugar wafers, and a cherry on top. In addition to the “Dunes Delight,” the restaurant also offered a “Sahara Special” and a “Moulin Mouthful,” with each sundae priced at a competitive 70 cents.